For those readers who are in a hurry this video is a 4:30 version of the blog below…
The week started off with an excellent talk by Doug Scott as part of the Harris Mountain festival. It is amazing to hear of the climbing feats of Doug and others of his generation, particularly when I have been known to wobble up a VDiff laced with gear! Doug also spoke of the work he had done in Nepal around education and improving the standards for the guides. It is certainly worth having a look at his website. Having spent last weekend on the mainland I was keen to make the most of this one. Already inspired to get out on the hills after Doug’s talk I had my mind made up to Bivi somewhere by the star filled sky I had to stop and stare at as I drove back from Tarbert to Stornoway. It is a pity the my camera doesn’t really capture the night sky that well because it was simply breathtaking.
Fast forward to Friday and I am once again beside myself with excitement at the prospect of getting out. I had promised myself that during the week I would have packed and been ready to go as soon as I got home…a broken promise later and I am stuffing things into my pack trying to get on the road by 7:00!
I decided to combine a couple of walks described in Richard Barrett’s Walking in Harris and Lewis over in Uig. One of the reasons for this was that following a school visit to Sgoil Uig (Uig primary school) I was mesmerised by the turquoise ocean and stunning hills that surrounded the school. Here is the route and where it is in relation to me.
Route from Stornoway to Uig
The hike
Even through I wanted to get out on to the hills as soon as I could there were once again vistas that forced me to stop the car and explore…
I had a number of other enforced stops on my way out to Uig including two rams that decided to have a battle on the single track and a heavily pregnant highland coo that wasn’t moving for anyone!
The upshot of the delays was a hike started in the dark…
I find hiking in the dark, especially alone, quiet surreal. The scenery changes completely and you get to appreciate the outdoors through another lens…
I try as much as possible to walk without the aid of artificial light, not for any mystical or environmental reason, but simply because your approach to the walk changes. You walk more slowly and deliberately, particularly on the heathery hills that will trip you up if you move too carelessly. I also find that I discover ‘paths’ in the dark and I’m fascinated as to whether in fact they exist or are simply my mind playing tricks on me in the dark. I am inclined to think that it is the later given the other tricks it gets up to on night hikes! The combination of deer grunts, owl screeches and fleeting grouse had me imagining all sorts as I ambled up the hillside.
I made a Bivi beneath some rock cover but close enough to a steep edge that meant I would have a stunning view to wake up to in the morning…
As I said in the video my favourite part of a Bivi is the anticipation of having your bones warmed by the rising sun in the morning…a feeling heightened by coffee and toasted Banana Soreen!
The great thing about bivvying is that it takes no time at all before you are packed and ready to go.
The first stop for me that morning was a hill loch that seemed from the map to be a promising trout loch…I wasn’t disappointed
The walk itself took in a number of summits (Naideahal a-Muigh, Laibheal a Deas, Laibheal a Tuath and Cracabhal) which provided awe-inspiring views..
Summit cairn of Naideahal a-Muigh
Summit cairn of Laibheal a Deas
Summit cairn of Cracabhal
I didn’t actually make the summit of Laibheal a Tuath as I was distracted by some visitors…
The walk was sensational but quite long and by the end I was fantasising how great it would feel to be walking barefoot along a sandy beach…
…luckily such a vision is readily made into reality in the Outer Hebrides…
The breaking waves makes me think it won’t be too long until i’m back for a visit with my surfboard.
At home in the Hebrides 